LINDSAY 80 AIR COMPRESSOR MANUAL MANUAL
LINDSAY 80 AIR COMPRESSOR MANUAL TV

I have heard (and I mean no disrespect) that it is a bit finicky to get it to run properly. However, my one concern is the maintenance. I am debating between the GRS GraverMach AT and the Lindsay Classic Airgraver. I have not ever regretted it even for a split second, other then regretting I didn't get it sooner. I would highly recommend the airgraver to anyone whether they are just learning or have been engraving for several years.

LINDSAY 80 AIR COMPRESSOR MANUAL TV

It was just as exciting as when we got our first color TV - It changed the world!!! :whoo: I purchased mine and kicked myself for not getting it several years sooner. The Airgraver is so smooth at starting and stopping. I have not used one yet and now have no reason to need them. If you need some extended length you can then add the removable quick release. The Classic already has a quick release built into it. By looking inside you can see there is very little to go wrong.

I have taken the cap off to swab mine out, but it was not because it was not working. You can have the idle so low you can hardly feel it or as strong as you want. You can adjust the idle with a slight turn of the air valve on the regulator. The Classic Airgraver has so few moving parts, that very little could even go wrong with it. i run a tungsten piston all the time at 80 psi. i cleaned this and it idles as good as the day he sent me the new rebore and i remember as he said that the rebore and new liner would idle to the point to where you couldn,t hear or feel it. the very light film of oil and air had made a very tacky spot between the piston and the hammering edge making it stick and not idle well. so i cleaned it again, this time bending the q tip at a 45 degree angle and rotating the barrel around it. i looked down the bore with a bore light and saw a fine damp ring where the outer diameter of piston contacts the forward edge of the barrel. it did not idle as good as it did lately a couple weeks ago.it was not the way i was cleaning it. it works perfectly as new the day i got it back from the rebore. i have cleaned the tool as prescribed several times internally with an alcohol swab. i have 2 filters on the tank and another on the set of guages at a higher level, above. i use a oil compressor like steve has on the tool list silent air. had rebored and a tungsten piston made for it. The classic works fine for me.i,ve been using about 9 yrs now. They provide extra length for large hands or if wanting to get more use from a short graver. Last method is using the quick change extensions for the Classic. The rubber o-ring is then all that is used to hold the graver in the tool hole.ДҐ. It is similar to #1', but with the set screw completely removed. The fourth method is to remove the setscrew or thumb screw from the AirGraver's nose completely, and just slip the 3/32' square graver shanks in/out. It will work with any shank graver (round or square) under.

The third way to use the tool holder is with a set screw and wrench. The graver can be tightened down for a more secure grip than #1.ДЈ. Remove the setscrew and use the knurled thumbscrew in its place. This will work with any shank graver (round or square) under. Utilizes a thumb screw for a more secure grip. Once the setscrew is set, it does not need to be adjusted to change gravers.Дў. The screw acts as an index in this way and the friction of the O-ring in the front of the tool hole prevents the graver from falling out. To prepare the tool, insert a 3/32' square graver and leave the setscrew slightly backed off from the surface of the graver. This works best with 3/32' square shank gravers.

Gravers are held from rotating or falling out of the tool hole because of the oring, yet they may be pulled out or pushed in easily. For work on the knives I didn't change gravers very often and so I would use method 3.ДЎ: Slip a graver in and out of the tool hole. If switching a lot, I use method #1 (no collects needed) or method 2 is also quick.

LINDSAY 80 AIR COMPRESSOR MANUAL MANUAL

The Classic and PalmControl are already set up to do quick change without collets by only using 3/32' square gravers themselves.Д«elow are the methods in the manual about changing gravers in the Classic and PalmControl. It is method 5 that I have included below from an earlier post about the various methods of holding gravers in the Classic. If you would like to use collets though there are the quick change extensions made for the Classic. Yes, with 3/32' square gravers in the Classic it can be setup for quick change without collets. This is done by removing the handle, dumping the piston in your hand and using alcohol on a q-tip to swab out the bore, wipe off the piston with alcohol and reassemble. The manual describes that if you notice the tool does not idle as fine as it used to or stopping, it is time to clean it. Hi Giordan, It is necessary to keep oil out of the bore and piston.

Lindsay 80 air compressor manual